The power of beauty: how women took care of themselves during World War II

Is it appropriate to paint your lips, do hair removal, or buy new perfume when your country is at war? I am sure that every Ukrainian woman asked herself such a question. To dispel your doubts, let us recall the women of the Second World War. They not only heroically defended their countries, worked in the rear, but also inspiredly took care of themselves. Read about makeup tricks and favorite products of the beauties of that time in our material.

Military b eauty is the routine of women in Europe 

In Europe during the war, cosmetics were a true luxury, as were soaps and shampoos. All because its components, such as alcohol and vaseline, were in short supply and were directed to military needs. What remained for civil life was rationed. But even in spite of this, women tried to monitor their appearance. For example, in Great Britain , Prime Minister Winston Churchill was an ardent supporter of make-up. He believed that women with painted lips and eyes inspire men at the front and bring victory closer. Therefore, his government in every possible way encouraged manufacturers to issue lipsticks to women as needed, and not according to coupons. According to historians, it was Churchill who launched the “Beauty is your duty” campaign. It was accompanied by slogans like “Lipstick is your weapon, and you are the rear soldiers.”

Advertising poster from the Second World War

At the same time, those who did not have the opportunity to buy cosmetics made it themselves at home. The self-care plan of savvy British women looked like this: lips and cheekbones were painted with beetroot juice, hair – with vegetable dyes, for example, chamomile or henna. Shoe cream served as mascara, and if a razor was needed, pumice stones were sharpened for the feet.

The situation was different in Germany . When Adolf Hitler came to power, cosmetics were completely banned in the country. Also, German women were not recommended to wear jewelry and fur, use perfume. The Führer believed that make-up was unacceptable and desecrated their natural beauty. Hitler especially hated red lipstick. He was a vegetarian, and lipsticks in those days were made from animal fats. Later, it was this dislike that prompted women from allied countries to paint their lips with red lipstick as a sign of protest against the fascist occupation.

Cosmetics as a patriotic duty in the USA

In the USA, with the beginning of the war, they decided to stop the production of cosmetics due to a lack of raw materials. But in a few months it was allowed again. But more recognized that cosmetics  not just necessary for women, but vitally necessary. After all, it helps them remain feminine even in the harsh realities of war. The idea was quickly picked up by cosmetic brands. In particular, Max Factor , Maybelline, Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein. In their advertising brochures, they emphasized that external beauty should be a priority. And raised eyes and painted lips were promoted as a patriotic duty of every woman.

World War II advertisement for Max Factor. Photo: Photoplay

In 1941, the American government commissioned Elizabeth Arden to create a special line of cosmetics for female soldiers. It included nail polish, blush and a legendary lipstick called Montezuma Red. The launch was so successful that Arden later created a similar lipstick for civilian women, calling it Victory Red.

Advertising poster of Elizabeth Arden cosmetics. Photo: Phillip Halsman, 1941

Arden’s ardent competitor Helena Rubinstein was not far behind. She also presented her own shade of red called Regimental Red. And Max Factor created red shades of lipstick for women with different shades of hair – blondes, brunettes, brown-haired and redheads.

What was the makeup of the war years

Facial tone

The make-up of that time combined charm and naturalness. Ivory toning bases were popular, giving the face a fresh and healthy look. Means mostly had a matte finish, more expensive options – a light shine. In the early 1940s, Max Factor’s compact cream-powder Pan-Cake, which became the prototype of the modern foundation, became widely popular. It was applied to the face with a wet sponge.

World War II advertising poster for Max Factor’s Pan-Cake Cream Powder

Powder

To fix the foundation and eliminate unwanted shine, women used loose powders. But due to the lack of packaging materials, in particular metal, brands had to change packaging to a simpler one – cardboard or plastic,  give up the cannons. This is how pressed compact powder began to gain popularity. It was more convenient to use, because it allowed to correct makeup even on the go.

Eye shadows

Shades were hard to come by during the war, so women mostly made their own. For example, a candle was lit over a saucer and held until soot was formed. The resulting carbon black was mixed with vaseline and applied to the eyelids. Those who were lucky enough to buy shadows were satisfied with only shades of gray and brown. It was rare to find green, purple, or gold palettes.

Mascara

During the war years, solid mascara was incredibly popular. her  produced in black, brown and blue colors. Later, a cream mascara appeared in a tube, which was applied with a brush only to the upper eyelashes.

World War II Maybelline ad. Photo: Hayleycamille.com

Blush

Blush was produced in cream and dry forms. The color scheme was limited to peach, coral and pink. Blush was applied to the apples of the cheeks, as well as to the face to create a soft contour.

Eyebrows

Eyebrows were groomed, shaped and outlined with a black or brown pencil. They were left thick, but when plucked, they were given a clear arched shape. Lipsticks for eyebrows were also popular. With their help, unruly eyebrows were put in, some simply used vaseline.

Advertising poster from the Second World War

Pomade

Red, red, and red again! It was the color of the 1940s. Lipsticks in those days were matte, and to add shine, women applied a little vaseline on top. Juicy, round lips with a pronounced curve on the upper lip, the so-called “Cupid’s Bow”, were considered the standard of beauty.

Actress Mary Astor with expressive makeup and red lipstick

Nails

Women of that time carefully took care of their nails . They were neatly trimmed, filed and had an oval shape. The cuticle was also flawless –  trimmed and moisturized. Nails were almost always painted in shades of red, but pink, purple, coral and burgundy were no less popular. 

WWII poster for Cutex nail polish

Did women take care of themselves during the Second World War in Ukraine

The territory of modern Ukraine is the place where key battles for the liberation of Europe took place. So there were practically no opportunities to take care of yourself, let alone buy cosmetics from Ukrainian women. According to historical data, there were about a million Soviet women at the front who did not have even elementary conditions for hygiene. In summer, they had to wash their body and hair with water from puddles or reservoirs, in winter –  rub with snow Access to elementary clean clothes and minimal cosmetics appeared only in 1944, when the liberation of the occupied territories began.

At the same time, women who lived in the rear tried to keep up with Western fashion. A special object of women’s desires was, of course, lipstick. However, only the chosen ones could get it. For example, wives of officers or artists of military ensembles.

Make-up of the 40s on the Ukrainian singer and actress Klavdiia Shulzhenko

Therefore, beauties often made their own cosmetics. For example, like the British women used beetroot juice to tone their cheekbones and lips. Mascara was obtained by mixing soot and soap. And unruly hair was covered with sugar syrup.

Text: Yevgenia Vlasenko

Photo:  Horst P Horst /CONDE NAST